Hachiman Shrine Bonfire

It is apparently the tradition in many cities across Japan to have a little festival in mid January to burn to in luck for the new year.

We showed up at around 5 pm at Hachiman Shrine, which was packed with more Japanese people than I have seen anywhere. The road was roped off for several blocks leading up to the shrine (this is a 5-lane road, not a little street), and the hundred yard walk up the stairs from the entrance to the fire took the better part of a half an hour. When we finally got there, we got a look at this enormous bonfire going, no ropes holding people back, and people throwing stuff in.

In some of these pictures (see below) you’ll see these people in essentially a white headband and glorified shorts, and the many laboratories, classes, and companies do this. I’m told that this tradition started when during this celebration, sake brewers wanted to prove their strength and so go around like this in the freezing weather. And what’s more, it’s not a little jog down to the shrine warming up on the fire and then sprinting home. They really take their time, and they walk around a lot before they even come to the shrine. I imagine it gets chilly.

The things that people were throwing into the fire included New Year’s decorations, but also these items (many of which had dice on them) available for purchase nearby. A bystander who spoke English (he’s a professor at our University on another campus), was trying to tell us the significance, but it was too loud to hear, and most of it was lost on me.

Not far from the fire, there were hundreds of little food stands or game stands (very fair-like), and we had some food, and walked around the what was practically a little village around for while and found a temple where the scantily-clad folk were going and drinking a cup of sake, and then moving on. There was also a huge crowd in front of it all where people were waiting to throw money (in units of 5 yen) into these collection bins and ring a bell. Off to the side, you could buy a fortune for anywhere from 100 yen (~$1 US) to 30,000+ yen (~$300+ US).

Amazing festival, and I hope to see another again some day.

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新年 The New Year

Happy New Year everyone!

This holiday season was my first away from family, but it proved enjoyable. I was able to talk to almost all my family back home, and even got my stocking from home. I found a couple of good friends who were also staying in Sendai for the break, and that’s with whom I celebrated Christmas and New Years.

For Christmas, Collin (a friend from University of Wyoming) and I went downtown and saw all the lights and got dinner. We started off by going to one of at least a few of Sendai’s Irish pubs. Well, I suppose they’re only Irish in the sense that they’re run by Japanese. Japanese who have made it Ireland-themed. They even serve both kinds of beer – Guinness and stout. Then we found a nice little hole in the wall at which to try 牛たん (cow’s tongue), for which this region is apparently famous.

The time between Christmas and New Years has been spent trying to get back into a more normal sleeping arrangement. Instead of waking up at 5 PM, I tried to switch over to waking up around 7 AM, but to no avail. My chance actually came with New Years.

For New Years I bought a bottle of Champagne and Collin, Zhou Peng (from University of Beijing) and I cooked dinner and then waited for the new year on the roof listening to the Shinto shrines ringing their bells. (Every new year, all the Shinto shrines ring the bells 108 times. I’ve heard it’s to get rid of 108 bad spirits, but I have not verified this in any way.) Since Japan is all in the same time zone, all of the Shrines across Japan are relatively synchronized, and in a city like Sendai with so many shrines, it was really a wonderful sound.

Collin and I agreed to meet up again around 6:20 to see the sunrise at a nearby shrine that sits on top of a hill. We took a time lapse of the sunrise, which didn’t turn out super-great, but it’s still nice to have.

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